Gold Medal Classroom

Apr 19, 2024, 5:24
6921

Front of House: Tableside—a Missed Opportunity

02 June 2010

By Audrey Heckwolf

chef_jan10Culinary students love learning tableside, and guests will become committed patrons if we treat them to dinner and a show.

The art of tableside service is near extinct. Few restaurants offer fresh preparations performed at a guest’s table. It seems to be isolated to cruise ships, French restaurants, catering and Sunday brunches. It is incredibly challenging to even find reliable sources on the subject that date more recent than the 1970s.

This is part of the problem. As culinarians we view tableside as archaic, costly and dangerous, and thereby miss the opportunity that it can offer in a variety of establishments. It is time to reinvent the classics and turn to new innovative tableside offerings and create a tableside evolution.

The advantages are clear: increased revenue, flair and entertainment and uniqueness. But let’s not overlook ease on the kitchen, fresh preparation and guest involvement. To be fair, offering tableside service has its disadvantages, too; there are liability issues, equipment can be costly and staff will require specialized training.

While all true, the disadvantages need not be a deterrent. Tableside preparations do not have to be flambéed, decreasing liability. The classic French gueridons and rechauds are not necessary for all but very few applications. Many rolling carts can be converted into elegant tableside carts very inexpensively. A portable burner and a bit of straight draping can revive those old carts that are lingering around not being used. Tableside training can be included in existing server-training programs and need not be elaborate. Even simple, forgiving recipes offer guests an exciting, unique experience.

Forget about the classic offerings like Caesar salads, bananas Foster, and steak Diane. Let’s begin to reach outside the box and challenge our students to create new, inventive tableside presentations. What about a shaken shrimp cocktail? Picture it: jumbo chilled shrimp, cilantro, tomatoes, garlic, jalapeño, Cointreau, Stoli, orange juice, lime and scallions, served shaken, not stirred, in a martini glass with an orange supreme garnish—amazingly innovative, delicious and exciting.

When given the opportunity my students never fail to amaze me at their creativeness to develop new and exciting tableside presentations, from sushi rolls to adult grilled -cheese sandwiches with tomato bisque to fish tacos with fresh tortillas. Culinary students love learning tableside, and guests will become committed patrons if we treat them to dinner and a show.

Foregoing tableside offerings is truly a missed opportunity in today’s struggling economic times. As culinary educators, we need to expose our students to as many revenue-building opportunities as possible. The competition among places to dine is especially daunting to restaurateurs. Offering unique dining experiences is just one great way to bring in customers and set one establishment apart from its competitors. It is time we begin to bring back a classic technique and revolutionize the art of tableside cooking.


Audrey Heckwolf teaches advanced tableservice as well as the personal- and private-chef curriculum at The Secchia Institute for Culinary Education at Grand Rapids (Mich.) Community College.