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The Power of a Good Hot Sandwich

06 September 2010

By Brian Campbell, CEC, CCE

food2_sept10Because everyone grew up eating sandwiches, students will inevitably view sandwich-making as a life skill they have already mastered. This is where the teaching challenge lies.

When teaching one of the major objectives (the technique of roasting) in a recent class, I had an opportunity to show how to utilize a leftover roast from the previous day, in this case pork loin, to produce a profitable menu item.

As a class, we created a variation of a Cuban sandwich that included the roast pork, ham, Gruyère cheese and pickles on a freshly baked loaf of bread. We embellished the traditional recipe by adding caramelized onions and whole-grain mustard. After warming and pressing the sandwich, we sliced it and sampled it as a class during our scheduled lunch period.

Well, the word got out that we had made sandwiches. Chef instructors started to migrate to our lab to enjoy some, as well. So here we are, about five chefs standing in a circle, all enjoying a sample of the featured item, and out of the blue, a student makes the following observation: “How come all the chefs are eating a sandwich when we have roast prime rib on the carving station?”

Yes, it was true—a beautiful slow-roasted, medium-rare prime-rib roast languished in the corner. We had to practically reach over the succulent piece of meat in order to select our slice of sandwich! This was a teaching moment if ever there was one: When surrounded by high-quality food in an informal setting, even a trained critic will gravitate to a well-made sandwich.

That is the power of a good hot sandwich. And yes, in case you were wondering, we did make French dips with the leftover prime rib and jus the next day.

Brief History
Although credit for the first recorded sandwich is given to Rabbi Hillel the Elder in the 1st century (two matzohs with apples and chopped nuts), it is in the Dark and Middle Ages where the precursor for the open-faced sandwich took hold. Before the invention of the fork, thick pieces of bread (called trenchers) were used to get food from the plate to the mouth. This practice carried forward into the Renaissance period until the use of eating utensils became predominant. Table manners soon followed, and the trencher was no longer considered proper.

In 1762, the combination of meat placed between two slices of bread and eaten out of hand was given its name after John Montague the Fourth Earl of Sandwich. The story goes that the earl was a compulsive gambler and would do so for hours on end. Unwilling to take a break, he would ask the cooks for slices of salted beef surrounded by bread so he could eat and continue gambling. At least one biographer, N.A.M. Rodger, disagrees with this now-famous origin story. He concluded from his research that during this period, the earl was working so much as a cabinet minister that the meal was necessary to sustain himself during long hours at his desk. In either case, the sandwich was born from convenience—the ability to eat and do something else at the same time. Multitasking and the working lunch in its infancy. (So he must be to blame).

For most, sandwiches have been a part of our lives for years. We can look back to Mom or Dad making us a PB&J for our lunch box the first day of school. We all have the old standby sandwich we make for lunch, and students are no different. With that in mind, it is inevitable that students will view sandwich-making as a life skill that they have already mastered. This is where the teaching challenge lies. We are taking the ultimate comfort food and breaking away from personal likes and preferences in an effort to create a hot sandwich that will not only sell, but make money.

When teaching hot sandwich-making, I compare it to cooking in general. You first need to learn the basics and then produce some of the classics before you attempt your own creations.

The Basics
The primary ingredient (the diva of the sandwich) is where you should begin. This is your opportunity to utilize products or byproducts from your existing menu. For example, if you feature roast pork or chicken on your menu, you should definitely utilize these items on a hot lunch sandwich. Beyond the obvious reason of utilization of leftovers, it will also help reduce the amount of different items in your inventory. This will help rotate your stock with more regularity, ensuring the freshest product on hand.

Bread (more than something to hold it together). The varieties of sandwiches are almost endless if you consider the proliferation of styles of good bread readily available, then add the assortment of added ingredients for flavor. The standard rye, sourdough and pumpernickel are always good standbys, but now breads such as rosemary/olive oil, sundried-tomato focaccia and cheddar jalapeño will not only help sell your sandwich, but will add a new depth of flavor, as well.

Spread (beyond mayo and mustard). This is an opportunity to add additional flavor to your sandwich. I like to equate a spread to a sandwich as sauce to an entrée. Flavored mayonnaises such as chipotle, pesto and horseradish are good examples of easy spreads that can help enhance your concept. Looking beyond “yellow” to a quality whole-grain or spicy brown mustard will add a different twist. Depending on the type of sandwich, consider tapenade or chutney if appropriate.

Vegetables (like Mom said, eat your vegetables). Using vegetables on your sandwich may not be critical, but doing so can certainly enhance the product. For example, artichokes, roasted peppers, caramelized onions, sundried tomatoes, sautéed mushrooms and pickled jalapeños can not only help with flavor, but also help focus a theme for your hot sandwich.

Cheese (the glue that holds it all together). Cheese sells. A good-quality cheese on a well-thought-out sandwich can seal the deal (so to speak). It should, of course, fit the flavor profile you have determined and melt with ease.

The Classics
When it comes to some of the classic hot sandwiches—Reuben, Monte Cristo, Cuban, hamburger, etc.—history and familiarity have made theses sandwiches staples on many menus. They work. When you order a Reuben, you know what you are getting. It sells itself. Teaching the classics may be simply a matter of assembly and cooking, but spend time discussing what makes sandwiches unique, why their flavors work together, how they are assembled and why.

Designing your own creations
When designing a custom hot sandwich, I tell the students to approach sandwich construction like they would an entrée. Focus on your primary ingredient, then introduce other ingredients that will complete a theme for your sandwich. For example, if we start with that leftover roast pork loin, then add a whole-grain mustard spread, caramelized onions with thyme and fontina cheese on rosemary/olive-oil bread, we have not only woven flavors that work well together, but assembled a sandwich that will sell because customers can appreciate the flavor combination.

Teaching a student how to prepare any type of comfort food is going to be a challenge. To the student, it will seem insignificant to spend time on a food item that he or she might make at home. What is important for students to realize is that for comfort food to sell, it has to be BETTER than the customer can make at home, and to that end it will require more thought and better execution. By following the steps listed above and emphasizing utilization of product, menu trends and profit, you will succeed in making it relevant to the student.


Brian Campbell, CEC, CCE, is an associate instructor in the College of Culinary Arts at Johnson & Wales University in Charlotte, N.C.

Photo credit: National Mango Board, www.mango.org/foodservice

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