Working Through the Weeds
27 January 2016Executive Chef Daniel M. Pliska, CEC, AAC, explains a career in culinary arts is not like a Food Network competition. It’s tougher.
By Lisa Parrish, GMC Editor
Chef Daniel M. Pliska, CEC, ACC, has spent 40 years working around the globe where he has seen the best and worst of the foodservice industry. For the last 18 years, his feet have been planted at the University Club on the campus of the University of Missouri. He is passionate about using his experience and giving back to young, rising culinarians beginning their careers in the field he loves. He is as passionate about the culinary field today as when his career began.
The 32-year American Culinary Federation (ACF) member holds a position on the organization’s National Apprenticeship Committee where he works on a subcommittee for marketing the program and also participates in site visits. The committee maintains the Chef Apprenticeship standards, which are sanctioned by the U.S. Department of Labor.
“An apprenticeship combines the best of both worlds. It gives students hands-on training and an education. When working as an apprentice, students are exposed to and learn from many situations,” Chef Pliska explained. “Students need to experience as much as possible as they work their mind, palate and physical dexterity.”
The marriage of both experience and education is invaluable. “Students in school learn the why and theory behind it. Students in the kitchen learn how to do it,” he said.
Chef Pliska, president of the ACF Central Missouri Chapter, reported apprentices in his local ACF chapter work 40 hours per week in the University Club kitchen’s and spend one day per week in class at Johnson County Community College, in Kansas City, Kansas. After three years they graduate with an associate of applied science degree, three years of professional experience and an ACF certification.
“The cost of a culinary education can vary from extremely high - think Ivy League - to the price of community college,” he said. “Cost may not be an issue with some students. But, for those who cannot afford it (a high-end school), an education with an apprenticeship is much less costly and does not burden students with a sizable loan upon graduation.”
During the hands-on training in the kitchen, students are taught the culinary trifecta: hot food, cold food, and baking/pastry. “We push them through it so they will become well-rounded,” Chef Pliska said.
Learning to become a culinarian requires working the mind as well as working the body. According to Chef Pliska, time in the classroom is spent on engaging in primary research, secondary research, and other classes pertaining to culinary management. Primary research addresses the basics of classical cooking and why these techniques have stood the test of time. Secondary research involves understanding the history of food, why people eat certain foods, and the development of distinctive flavor profiles.
A formal education is only one part of the apprenticeship equation; the other part is real-world kitchen experience. And, the more time spent cooking the better. Chef Pliska believes not enough students know what’s in store for them as a full-time cook in a restaurant working at the bottom rung of the ladder that leads to executive chef.
He is not the only chef who feels students need to be more prepared with work experience. According to an Oct. 15, 2015, The New York Times article by Julia Moskin “Not Enough Cooks in the Restaurant Kitchen”, the restaurant industry has a gaping hole when finding employees to fill junior rolls like prep cook and line cook. “Cooks with just one or two years of experience were applying for jobs better suited to 10-year veterans. Stagiaires, aspiring cooks who once begged for unpaid internships, were leaving after a day of work, or not showing up at all,” the article stated.
In the ACF apprenticeship program, students spend three years working in a kitchen for 40 hours a week. That time provides ample notice as to what a culinary career entails. “Cooking is not comfortable,” Chef Pliska notes. “It’s a shock to the system. You get to work in a hot kitchen and do things over and over and over. It takes a physical toll on your body.”
One of the best lessons this hands-on time imparts, according to Chef Pliska, is how to deal with the stress that inevitably comes from a busy kitchen. He describes this pressure as “being in the weeds.” He continued, “The food has to get out (of the kitchen) no matter what. Being in the weeds and under stress happens in every kitchen. Students have to understand it, deal with it, and work in it. The best way to minimize time in the weeds is through planning and mise en place.”
Chef Pliska also describes time in the kitchen as a path to help students develop a passion for cooking and understanding its natural constraints. “Cooks need to know how to do high-volume cooking. You can’t spend all day on one dish, like you can in an educational kitchen setting.” Efficiency and dexterity take time to develop.
The final piece of the apprenticeship puzzle is placed when instructors and overseeing chefs help students understand the importance of soft skills such as reliability, punctuality, and hard work. “Students need to be taught that food has to get out no matter what. They need to show up on time, every time. They need to know when they are in the weeds and when to ask for help. This is the real world and you can’t repeat a failure over and over.”
Managing expectations is a big part of the training. Chef Pliska regularly gives apprentices his foodservice career climb rule of thumb: three years to become a cook; five years to entry level sous chef; and 10 years to become a chef.
He also describes what happens when a chef becomes a manager and he or she begins wearing the “magic apron.” Chef Pliska said, “That’s when a chef is now in charge and you are magically supposed to know how to hire staff, develop marketing materials, have excellent food safety skills and strong presentation skills. The buck stops with you and you have no one to check with. That’s why it takes so long to become a qualified and competent chef.”
“In my 40 years of experience, I’ve worked in everything from 5-star hotels, first class clubs, high volume restaurants, bakeries and pastry shops, and some really small operations as well. I want to pass on what I’ve learned,” Chef Pliska explained. Part of his giving-back plan was accomplished in 2014 when he authored his first textbook, “Pastry & Dessert Techniques” with American Technical Publishers. “I would like to eventually write two more books covering cold food and hot food preparation.”
The knowledge Chef Pliska has acquired during his more than 25 years as an executive chef becomes obvious when he gives pastry students advice on learning more than the sweet side of pastry baking. “As a pastry cook you can be very valuable to a corporation,” Chef Pliska explained. He cites the example of using crepes, strudels, or tarts to cook food for every course – from appetizers to the main course to desserts.
“Pastry - more specifically flour - is cheaper than protein. You can make a tart, top it with a small amount of protein, and add a relish and sauce around it. You have cut the food cost (by using less protein than a full-sized portion), increased the flavor profile, and created a beautiful presentation. All the while increasing variety in what is served,” he noted. This type of high-volume, lower-cost dish can make a big difference with the bottom line.
Chef Pliska’s ability to operate an efficient and profitable operation is exemplified by his time at the exclusive University Club. Since he began there in 1998 until the present, the venue has more than doubled in size and revenue under his direction.
The marriage between education and experience cannot be understated when trying to be successful in the culinary industry. According to Chef Pliska, “Winning a food competition is important. But, it comes down to making money. And to do that - that is an everyday struggle.”
Chef Daniel M. Pliska, CEC ACC, is the Executive Chef and Assistant Manager for the University Club at the University of Missouri located in Columbia, MO. He directs a kitchen staff of three sous chefs and 35 kitchen staff in three venues: The University Club, University Catering and Events Services and selected fraternity dining houses. Chef Pliska’s first book, “Pastry & Dessert Techniques,” was published in May 2014 by American Technical Publishers. He can be reached at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..
PHOTOS: Courtesy of Kim Wade