Chefs Speak Out

Apr 19, 2024, 23:12

Chefs Speak Out: A Modern Approach to Preserving the Past

Monday, 09 December 2013 13:24

Through the free videos he helps produce for Unilever, Steve Jilleba stresses the need among current and future cooks to understand culinary origins and the impulses that inspired authentic flavors around the globe.

By Lynn Schwartz

“Today, everything moves quickly. There is a lot of cross-culturalization, and culinary traditions get mixed and blended,” says Steve Jilleba, CMC, corporate executive chef for Lisle, Ill.-based Unilever Food Solutions. “Original recipes and cooking techniques can become lost forever.”

The risk of unrecoverable culinary practices inspired Unilever and The Culinary Institute of America to partner in a preservation initiative, The World Culinary Arts DVD & Internet Project. “Savoring the Best of World Flavors” is an interactive series that provides a first-of-its-kind video reference library for future generations, documenting and conserving best culinary practices worldwide.

To date, this ambitious undertaking offers seven volumes featuring more than 16 countries including India, China, Japan, Vietnam, Greece, Sicily, Spain, Mexico, Peru and Brazil. “We are trying to preserve a country’s authenic culinary traditions,” says Jilleba.

To accomplish that, Jilleba and his team travel to a specific country and film the “experts” as they prepare time-honored recipes, divulge necessary ingredients and reveal cooking techniques. The interviews often discuss the dish’s development, geographic and historical implications, and examine how a dish has evolved in contemporary kitchens. The camera also catches visits to a variety of open-air street markets and long-standing food shops. The result is that the viewer, comfortably transported far and wide to each locale, is privy to a country’s past, present and future food culture—something most chefs would never have the opportunity to witness on such a large scale. The videos and podcasts are free of charge to foodservice professionals and students, and many of the recipes are available to download.

Chefs Speak Out: On the Road to a Three-Star Mexican Restaurant

Friday, 04 October 2013 12:14

Alex Stupak returns to his alma mater to deliver a commencement address, citing Grant Achatz and Ken Oringer as role models.

Alex Stupak, one of Food & Wine magazine’s Best New Chefs for 2013, delivered the keynote address at commencement ceremonies at The Culinary Institute of America’s Hyde Park, N.Y., campus on Sept. 6. Stupak is the executive chef and owner of Empellón Taqueria and Empellón Cocina in New York City.

The 2000 graduate of the CIA first made a name for himself as a pastry chef before returning to the savory side of cooking three years ago with his Mexican concepts. He was named Best Pastry Chef by Boston magazine in 2003 and one of the Top Ten Pastry Chefs in America by Pastry Art & Design in 2008 and by Dessert Professional in 2009.

Chefs Speak Out: All in the Family

Wednesday, 04 September 2013 17:00

Marco Chirico, at only 25, is already moving a legacy into the next generation via his father’s restaurants—one operating for three decades and one a few years young—in Brooklyn.

By Lynn Schwartz

When a parent receives public recognition in a career, the children might prefer to run in the opposite direction, deliberately choosing a different livelihood. Then there are those offspring who desire to follow in the impressive family footsteps. With that decision is an inherited responsibility; there is a pressure to measure up.

Marco Chirico has chosen the latter path. At only 25, he is taking over Marco Polo Ristorante, his father’s legendary Italian restaurant in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn—a restaurant that has just celebrated its 30-year anniversary.

Accepting the reins requires a delicate balancing act. Chirico must maintain the quality, integrity and longevity of the famed family business, but also carefully and respectfully guide the restaurant into the future for the next generation.

Filling Some Very Big Shoes
Chirico grew up in the middle of a lively business where the whole family was involved. Chirico’s father, Joseph, immigrated to New York from San Martino, Italy, in 1964. He began with a luncheonette, serving Italian sandwiches, and in 1983 opened Marco Polo Ristorante, named for the Venetian explorer.

Joseph Chirico became recognized as a pioneer, introducing both fine Italian dining to Brooklyn and serving unfamiliar ingredients such as bufala mozzarella imported from Italy, porcini mushrooms and truffles. He also became the owner and operator of the historic Gage and Tollner on Fulton Street in downtown Brooklyn.

There was no expectation for Joseph’s son to make a career in the hospitality industry. “I was bussing tables since I was 12 years old,” says Marco Chirico. “We all worked there. My sisters were hostesses, but there was never any pressure for me to be in the business. I just liked it. I liked the customers and my father saw that.”

Chefs Speak Out: A Latin Introduction

Tuesday, 30 July 2013 19:10

Paladar Latin Kitchen & Rum Bar honors the diversity of South and Central America and the Caribbean by representing several regions on the menu, overseen by executive chef Joseph Tis. Although applications and flavors are authentic, the menu must have broad appeal. After all, just what does Latin food really mean?

By Lynn Schwartz

It’s hip. It’s sassy. It’s Latin. Paladar Latin Kitchen & Rum Bar is a smash hit and expanding—opening its next location in the Washington, D.C., metropolitan area in early August.Executive chef Joseph Tis will be overseeing a menu that features an American interpretation of the vibrant flavors of Central and South America and the Latin Caribbean, with a special nod to the cuisine of Cuba.

This is nuevo Latino, a mix-and-match culinary style, which is at once familiar, exotic and diverse. But many Americans mistakenly assume that Latin means Tex-Mex, requiring Tis and the Paladar team to coax the less-adventurous diner to try something besides a chicken taco.

Introducing a New Cuisine
Latino Americans are the fastest-growing minority group in the United States. Like Latino culture and music, the flavorful foods are gaining popularity, even with those Americans who cannot pronounce pupusa, ropa vieja or chimichurri.

The awakening is similar to other cuisines that have been adopted into American mainstream culinary habits. Mexican food is now viewed as commonplace, and it was not so long ago that Chinese food only meant chop suey and fortune cookies. Paladar is among the pioneers, basing its restaurant concept on an up-and-coming and still-evolving fusion cuisine. “We create our dishes by blending and borrowing from a wide variety of traditional Latin recipes,” says Tis. “It’s our own spin.”

Paladar (the name is taken from paladares, a Cuban term for small, home-based restaurants) opened its first location in Cleveland in 2007. The owners are not of Latin descent, but are galvanized by the cuisine’s diverse flavors and creative spirit.

Chefs Speak Out: How to Serve 110,000 Lunches around the World without Getting a Headache

Saturday, 01 June 2013 12:38

Pittsburgh’s Jeff Sinciline helps Bayer Corporation develop a menu for employees worldwide to enjoy a celebratory lunch marking the company’s 150th anniversary.

As Bayer Corporation marks the 150th anniversary of its founding this year, the company will hold an Employee Celebration Day luncheon for all 110,000-plus employees around the world on June 18, serving one international upscale menu to every employee on the same day. The anniversary menu was created using the expertise of five global Bayer “Celebration Chefs,” including the executive chef at Bayer’s Pittsburgh campus dining facility, Jeff Sinciline.

In preparation for the Celebration Day anniversary meal, Sinciline and a team of chefs from  Germany, China, France and Mexico worked for months to develop recipes with high-quality, fresh ingredients that are available worldwide, taking employees on a culinary trip around the globe while preparing the meals onsite at Bayer locations.

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