I graduated culinary school in the late 1980s in Sonora, Calif., and was going to take a pastry position in San Francisco. I went first to visit a friend in Hawaii in 1988 and worked a number of cooking jobs. She convinced me to stay, so six months has turned into 24 years at this point! Initially it was hard to get a kitchen job as a woman, plus, being from the mainland they probably thought I’d be gone soon anyhow, so I struggled a bit to fit in. In January 1989 I had a day off from my job, so I interviewed at Roy’s in Honolulu. They had already filled all their line-cook positions, but needed a pastry cook. I had experience in pastry; in fact, that was going to be my job in San Francisco that I never went back to. So they hired me! It’s funny that when I flew over I had the copy of Bon Appétit that had Roy Yamaguchi on the cover—I never ever imagined that I would end up working for him!

I started as a pastry tournant at the Hawaii Kai property and paid attention from the get go and then made myself available for any job that needed to be done. I was able to move up eventually into the executive-chef position at that property and at a number of the Roy’s as they opened, which in time worked into the corporate-chef position after Gordon Hopkins, Roy’s business partner and corporate chef, left to the mainland to handle the expanding venture there. In the process I have been able to open Roy’s on Guam and Japan where I didn’t speak the language and you didn’t see women in the kitchen, so it has been quite an experience!

My husband actually is a chef in the Roy’s group, so his support and that of my son allows us to keep an unusual family dynamic with all the long hours and traveling and such, and make it work. I couldn’t do it without my family’s support. With all this I still remember that I am basically still a cook, and Roy is, too—we actually all still work on the line and lead by example. It really is the fun part for me. We are opening Roy’s Tavern at Princeville right now and I’ll get to work the line a lot to get things going, which will be pretty cool. Our philosophy as a company really is to lead by example. Long story short—I got on at Roy’s and ended up staying for good! The islands, people and lifestyle just suit me well. And I’m doing something I absolutely love, cooking for people and making them happy. I even do it on my days off—it’s a dream come true!

How would you define your style?
Creative, intense, but I like to have fun with a sense of urgency and take care of the guests primarily. I love all different types of cuisines and like to blend flavors and ideas in a sensible way. I love Japanese food, but in the deepest recesses of my heart I go back to NorCal and the homestyle Mexican food I grew up on.

What do you like most/least about being the boss?
Nothing really most or least. I spend time solving problems and wonder why they exist sometimes, but really I have the best chefs in the state—they are coworkers and friends. We truly are a team, and I don’t feel like I am their boss. We know each other’s families, we spend time together and all love each other. I guess when I occasionally have to let someone go it is difficult, and I have to remind myself that this is still a business that needs to be run effectively and everyone needs to be on the same page. I will say, other than that, one downside is when I’m away from my family.

Which chefs influenced you the most?

• Roy Yamaguchi. I mean just WOW. Even when I’m on the line with him now he is still amazing after all these years.
• Tetsuya Wakuda. The famous Aussie chef who is not only an amazing chef, but an awesome person to boot, really nice and always willing to share his resources.
• Thomas Keller. I have not worked with him, but his creativity and dedication really inspires me.

If you could keep only three culinary books, what would they be?

• Food Lover’s Companion. It helps me spell stuff, and is great for pop-quiz time!
• Asian Ingredients.
• Kitchen Confidential. Bourdain cracks me up!

Favorite kitchen gadget?
Our new Cryovac machine. I can’t stop playing with it!

Culinary trends that bug you/ trends you like?
LIKE: Comfort food, non-composed, just great food on the plate. Less frou frou, more food!

HATE: Foam. I just don’t get it, I just don’t see why. It’s foam. I just like sauces with more substance, a dollop or a drizzle.

An ingredient that you’re attached to?
Buddha’s hand.

Most memorable dining experience?
Black pepper & chili crab in Singapore with Roy.

Favorite “elbows on the table hole in the wall”?
Side Street in Honolulu.

A food item you hate to admit to liking?
Velveeta. I need it for mac 'n’ cheese, but I supplement it with other cheeses, of course. I make this Velveeta and chorizo dip that is just addictive—I mean it’s just ridiculous!

Three things in your fridge right now?
Salsa, wine, SPAM. I grew up on it! Burritos, SPAM ‘n’ eggs, etc.

Secret junk-food indulgence?
Hot Tamales, the candies. When I can find them I’ll buy a box and eat them all!

Editor’s note: CAFÉ thanks Chef Khoury and Preferred Meats, which supplies product to Roy’s, for allowing the republishing of this interview.

John Paul Khoury, CCC, is corporate chef of Preferred Meats Inc. based in Oakland, Calif. For 25 years, Preferred Meats has supported the small family farmer by supplying some of the country’s top restaurants with farm-to-table meats. For more info, visit www.preferredmeats.com or call (510) 632-4065.