Chefs Speak Out

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Chefs Speak Out: Head-to-Tail Eating and a Monte Cristo Sandwich

31 October 2010

By John Paul Khoury, CCC, www.preferredmeats.comwww.preferredmeatsblog.com

chef_nov10An interview with Mark Liberman, chef/owner of Black Sheep Butchery, Sacramento.

Mark Liberman, a well-seasoned Sacramento, Calif., native, has worked in some of the top kitchens in America, if not the world, for such chefs as Joël Robuchon, Daniel Boulud and Roland Passot. Liberman has also competed in the semi-finals of the prestigious Bocuse d'Or. He has, curiously enough, returned to Sacramento and opened his own business. What brought Liberman back home, and what's his story?

Here's the scoop:

What drew you to the industry and why become a chef?
My initial draw into the restaurant/hospitality industry began when I was relatively young; growing up with both of my parents cooking at home and watching lots of PBS cooking shows is what drew me in. But when I got my first job as an apprentice at 15, I was hooked even before I ever worked on a line. Every day is something new, every day you start from scratch. It’s incredibly tough with long hours and constant pressure, but I never even fathomed doing something else.

Why become a chef? First and foremost I define myself as a cook who is constantly working and honing his craft. In my opinion, it is one of the most rewarding industries if you are willing to put in the hours and hard work. There is something special about doing 200 covers of perfectly cooked food. It isn’t for everyone. I decided right after high school I wanted to go to The Culinary Institute of America. It was a good springboard to learning proper technique, item recognition and working in a restaurant setting in the front and back. I have worked in various kitchens, staged under several chefs, and I am still constantly learning. This is why one should become a chef, to constantly strive for perfection, to take care of your guests and make sure they have an amazing experience when dining with you. Sometimes, people forget that we all work in the hospitality industry.

Culinary highlights:

  • Being a part of the opening team of Joël Robuchon’s first American restaurant.
  • Working the chef de cuisine position at the four-star La Folie in San Francisco.
  • Competing in the U.S. semi-finals for the Bocuse d’Or.

How would you define your style?
While my cooking style is influenced by modern French and Italian cuisine, the process of finding ingredients, new and old, are at the forefront, refining and concentrating each single flavor. I embrace modern cooking techniques and the limitless bounty that California has to offer. Local, seasonal and sustainably sourced ingredients are intrinsically better. My dishes are dominated by flavors and textures both familiar and new. In a sense, it’s my take on Northern California cuisine.

You’ve worked in top markets for some of the best and now you’re back in Sacramento. Why Sacramento and, in your opinion, where is this town heading?

I feel that Sacramento as a culinary city is beginning to find its niche. I have a sense that it’s moving forward, and I want to be a part of that. I know that Sacramento will never be the same as San Francisco or other large cities, but it reminds me of smaller cities such as Portland, Ore., that have really come into their own. The reality is that when I was working in the Bay Area, several of the farms and ranches I was working with were based in the Sacramento/Yolo County area. People are beginning to step out of their comfort zone and try new things as far as food and wine.

Which chefs influenced you the most?
Roland Passot of La Folie has been a huge mentor for me, not only when I was a commis for him, but when I came back years later—the kind of chef who still works dinner service every night and watches every dish leave the pass.

Daniel Boulud has relentless energy and commitment to every aspect of the restaurant, BOH and FOH. He will push and push you to move faster, work cleaner, cook better and always thinking three steps ahead of what you are doing.

Luciano Pellegrini of Valentino Restaurant was a chef from Lombardy. He played an integral role in understanding staples of Italian cuisine. He showed me how to make proper sausage, cured meats, pasta and understanding the simplicity behind Italian cuisine.

If you could keep only three culinary books, what would they be?
Essential Cuisine by Michel Bras; Jean Louis: Cooking with the Seasons by Jean Louis Palladin; and The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating by Fergus Henderson

Favorite kitchen gadget?
Spoons. Because you can use one for everything, and it’s essential for basting fish and meats as they cook. I have “collected” saucing spoons from almost every restaurant I have worked in; well, I guess I stole them.

Culinary trends that bug you and trends you like?
I like: Head-to-tail eating, cocktails, street food, modern techniques and, of course, the return of butchery and charcuterie.

What bugs me: Young cooks who want to be celebrity chefs, gigantic portions, no reservations policy and bloggers who have no idea what they are talking about.

An ingredient that you’re attached to?
I really enjoy using celery—the leaves, the hearts and the actual ribs. I like to use them cooked, compressed, marinated, raw and braised. The flavor is so clean.

Most memorable dining experience?
I had lunch at Paul Bocuse in France when I was working in Lyon. Everything I ate, while very traditional, was executed perfectly, from the most amazing foie-gras terrine to a gluttonous cart of perfectly aged cheeses.

My dinner at The French Laundry when it was just starting up and I was just beginning my career stands out. The book had not come out yet, and I had heard about it from some friends who were working in Napa. I can remember all of my 15 courses, the polished yet relaxed service and the precision paid to each dish and ingredient. It was absolutely beautiful.

Favorite “elbows-on-the-table hole in the wall”?
Highway 29 Café, Napa, Calif. Awesome breakfast/lunch on the way to wine country.

A food item you hate to admit to liking?
Monte Cristo sandwich. After my years of living in Vegas, I grew to love these things. They are sweet, salty and downright good after a few drinks.

Three things in your fridge right now?
Saison du Pont (farmhouse ale from Belgium), my own cured guanciale and salted Calabria chiles.

Secret junk-food indulgence?
Kraft Mac & Cheese, the classic elbow-macaroni version.

See some of Chef Liberman's dishes here.


John Paul Khoury, CCC, is corporate chef of Preferred Meats Inc. based in Oakland, Calif. For 25 years, Preferred Meats has supported the small family farmer by supplying some of the country’s top restaurants with farm-to-table meats. For more info, visit www.preferredmeats.com or call (800) 397-6328.

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