Growing up in a family that values cooking or a community that cooks together can imprint on an aspiring chef’s soul, leaving a knowing so complete that no matter where the adult chef calls home, the techniques learned in childhood will always be a part of his or her culinary repertoire.
Chef Patricio Wise, proprietor of Nixtaco Mexican Kitchen & Distillery in Sacramento, Calif., spent his use youth learning to cook over open flames using locally grown ingredients in his hometown of Monterrey, Mexico. “I grew up building fires to cook, be it grilling or smoking,” the executive chef said. The entire community would come together for an event where they would grill steak, chicken, sausage and vegetables. According to Chef Wise, it was a time for companionship and an opportunity to “debate” the doneness of the steak.
After moving to Sacramento, Calif., in 2010, the chef discovered the need for a more diverse Mexican food scene locally. He opened Nixtaco and utilized flavors and ingredients of Northern Mexico in his business. It was his good fortune to move to an area where the local agriculture supports the sought-after ingredients used in his restaurant.
“We work closely with farmers and distributors to source the same species of chiles, beans, etc. Corn is grown locally from heirloom seeds, and anything we can't get local, we can trade,” Chef Wise detailed. He said that with the advantages of modern market access, he can secure the necessary ingredients to stay true to the recipes.
One of Nixtaco’s four salsa options is a Salsa Peanut Chipotle, which is an emulsion like an aioli. Chef Wise said, “I love Spanish garlic aioli and wanted to use the technique to make a Mexican version. I also love peanuts and they contain lecithin, a powerful emulsifier.” The salsa was originally very spicy and made with a popular Monterrey dried piquín chile. However, the spice level was too high for California guests and Chef Wise substituted locally grown chipotles, which added a smokiness to the salsa’s flavor profile.
Another benefit of living in the agricultural mecca of California is access to fresh local ingredients that pair well with the flavors of Northern Mexico. According to Chef Wise, the best burrata cheese that can be found outside of Italy is made with California dairy. “It only needs olive oil and salt. It is as simple as that,” he said. 
“I wanted to have a burrata dish on the menu but also wanted to have Mexican flavors with it. It turns out the acidity of our Salsa Verde, along with the richness of the dried chili sauce we dress it with, goes perfectly with the sweet richness of the burrata. And of course, instead of bread, we serve it with tostadas.” The dish illustrates flavors found in Northern Mexico melding with delicious, local California ingredients.
Chef Wise uses the technique of cooking over an open flame he learned from his childhood and applies it to many foods cooked at Nixtaco. “We do a lot of smoking preparations that would afterward be finished as a braise. Many people simply sear the protein and add the braising liquid, but we go that extra step to develop more flavor. Smoking it prior to braising not only adds flavor but since it's a slow process, it allows the proteins to tenderize even further, creating a better base for our braises,” he explained.
Authentically translating flavors from his childhood to his restaurant in Sacramento is a passion for Chef Wise. He believes that the flavors and gastronomic practices of any region will be dictated by what can be grown or traded. Diners at Nixtaco are lucky in that California-grown ingredients from dairy to proteins dictates a delicious, authentic meal.